Monday, December 7, 2009

Getting Ready for the Trip


The preparation for our trip revealed some really exciting information on things to see and do in the area of Mata Ortiz, as well as along the way down there. We last went to the village of Mata Ortiz three long years ago... actually now, it seems more like a lifetime ago! Writing this after our trip, I am really am not sure how we were able to stay away from the place and the people for that long! Mata Ortiz is just one of those quiet, remote places on Earth where you feel easy and comfortable. Coming from Los Angeles, the concrete jungle, where people are automatically on guard to those who are not known around them... it was such a fantastic breath of fresh air to be in a place where everyone knew each other, where people waved hello even when they did not know you... even when just passing in the next car traveling the opposite way down the road. I don't think that I have ever been greeted so genuinely by so many people in a single day! Mata Ortiz is a truly special slice of the world... a slice of the world that draws you in and makes you want to join in the fun!

While researching the best way to go about our trip, I ran across the information posted by the famous American anthropologist, Spencer MacCallum, at www.mataortizcalendar.com
This website is an invaluable resource to any of you out there that are planning a trip to the Casas Grandes area of Northern Chihuahua, Mexico. Spencer MacCallum can be credited with the popularity and the recognition that the pottery from Mata Ortiz has achieved in this world. After searching for, and locating, Juan Quezada (in the then little known remote village of Mata Ortiz, Mexico), Spencer worked closely first with Juan and then with other pioneering potters to develop a life giving industry for the area. As a result, Mata Ortiz Pottery is widely collected throughout the world, and is included in numerous museums and high end galleries as well. And inspiring enough, Mata Ortiz is one of the few towns in Chihuahua that does not regularly lose the majority of its residents to immigration. With over 500 potters plying their trade in the village, people have had a home grown cottage industry bringing in income to the village. Much of this due to the hard work and life's dedication that Spencer MacCallum has given to the area. Hopefully the current economic down turn will not change this for the future. It would be a shame, and a cultural loss, to see people leaving the village in search of other economic resources. This beautiful artistry and tradition must be kept alive!

In my world, Spencer MacCallum and his wife Emi are celebrities... so imagine my surprise and delight when Spencer offered to call me at my home, and give me pointers on artists and things that I should be sure to experience on our trip to Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz! I was nervous and excited to speak to this honorable and distinguished gentleman... and gentleman he definitely is! Spencer patiently answered my questions, provided numerous suggestions, and even allowed us to rent an old restored adobe home for a short term rental... a place I was dying to stay! Spencer graciously told us to come to his house when we first arrive in Casas Grandes, and then he would show us around. I think I was what they call "over the moon"... or maybe it was star struck... whatever it was, I was definitely at a loss for words!

Finally, the morning of Friday November 20, 2009 had arrived... the day of our scheduled departure!!! Although it arrived at the unholy hour of 5am, we were none the less excited to begin our adventure! After finalizing last minute details, and downing a cup of coffee at good old Starbucks... we were off and onto the freeway by 6:30 ugly am. Can you tell.. I am NOT a morning person!

Smooth sailing the whole way through California and into Arizona! Shew! We had missed the dreaded LA Rush Hour Traffic. As the songs and sayings go... "We Love LA" ... just not the traffic! But since we were traveling east, we had traveled the width of the state in record time. But of course that too could be because while Louis drove his heart out... I for one... SLEPT!! So it really did not seem all that long to me at all... go figure!!

Driving through Arizona was a trip. They have these crazy Photo Enforcement Zones... very dangerous indeed for the California driver! This essentially means that there are marked Police SUVs parked along the side of the freeway all over the place. The SUVs seemed not to have anyone in them, but they had these really tall polls with cameras and what I imagined to be the dreaded RADAR attached. So of course, this is where Louis decided that I should take over the driving... thanks..thanks a lot mister! After stopping for gas, we were getting back on the freeway when Louis decided to distract me while opening a bag a chips... my favorite junk food in life. The pedal went to the metal..and BAM... out of nowhere was one of those crazy SUVs! BUSTED! Really it was only a matter of a minute... honestly... and all due to a bag of chips... but hey, I was hungry officer! To this day, I am still checking the mail nervously ... but so far, so good! May it just stay that way, please.

We arrived in the beautiful desert city of Tucson at 1:45, excited for a full afternoon of sightseeing! One problem though - it was really 2:45 and we had forgotten to take into account the time difference. I ran out to mail a package to a customer back east, that I had forgotten to mail the day before.. and Louis checked out the dinner scene for Miguel's (YUMMM). When I returned to the hotel... La Posada (we loved it!)... we met up with a terrific new customer named Robyn, to deliver some Josefina Aguilar clay figures. She was so interesting and so much fun... we could have talked for hours! She is an artist, and does some wonderful Day of the Dead paintings!! Beautiful twist on the Day of the Dead theme, with colorful flowers and a cheerful essence. We love her work! I'll have to ask her for a link to post for everyone... we can't wait to visit her again!



Next we were off to see the San Xavier del Bac Mission on the outskirts of town. It is actually situated on Tohono O'odham Indian land, and is rich in cultural history. Absolutely beautiful too! The present mission church was built in the late 1700's, but one of the towers was never completed. It is a mystery to this day, why the second tower was never completed. From the moment we first laid our eyes on the structure, we were captivated by it's beauty. We pulled to the side of the road as soon as it came into sight, and tried to glimpse it from every angle. We arrived right as they were closing for the day, but the very hospitable caretakers of the property allowed us in the church in time to see the altar and leave behind a few prayers. We will definitely be back one day... this time with time to spare! You can read more about the mission on their website www.sanxaviermission.org/Index.html



We drove back into town, stopping in the old historic part of Tucson. Only 6pm on a Friday night, and the shops were all closed. So we headed back to La Posada, and then to Miguel's for a delicious dinner. Not being able to enjoy the stores in downtown Tucson, as well as the De Grazia gallery... as they say in travel.. you should always leave some things undone in a place you love..then you are sure to return! Hopefully it will be a day, just around the corner.

Good night all! Off to sleep with dreams of Mata Ortiz Pottery in our heads....

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Chock full of information and personal experience
which is always fun to read.I like the way you included links to other useful sites. Keep it up!!