Trader's Brunch and Our First Pottery Purchases!!

Sunday, November 22nd, 2009

We awoke early today, as is the custom in the Casas Grandes area. Early to bed, Early to rise.. as in when the sun comes up, everyone seems to get up. This interestingly enough, included me! Who knew that I could be a morning person! Wave a little pottery in front of me, and I just can't stay asleep!

Today, Emi and Spencer hosted the Trader's Brunch for all the traders and friends of Mata Ortiz that had not yet departed for home. It was held in the courtyard of Casa del Nopal, so we had a front row seat on all the action.
The brunch started at 9am, but we were able to help Emi and Spencer set up a bit beforehand. Our favorite errand of the morning was going to the Tortilleria down the street to purchase 2 kilos of tortillas. The Tortilleria was really cool... they make all the tortilla dough by hand, but then have this great machine that rolls everything out and onto a conveyor belt. Quite a sight, and much more exciting than picking up a pack at your local supermarket.

At the brunch we ran into Rebecca Russell and her husband Frederick. They live in Santa Barbara, California... just a short drive from home! I told you that it is a small world, and that we are all connected! They are such wonderful people and great spirits. it was fun getting to know them a little bit.

We also met Maria Pinedo, who is from San Francisco. Another wonderful person that we will end up spending a lot more time visiting.. luckily!! Maria is such a warm and gentle person. We are so happy to say that we became friends during our trip, and look forward to many years of friendship ahead!

Adalberto was there again this morning, and we had a nice time talking to him again as well. He ended up inviting us to the museum at the ruins of Paquime. They was an exhibition of his art work there at the same time. And he also very graciously invited us to dinner that day at his house... he and Maria were cooking! Yummm... I can't wait!

Another couple that we found very interesting were Ron and Sue Bridgemon from Tucson, Arizona. They lead tour groups to Mata Ortiz and to the Copper Canyon. They also have a second home in Mata ortiz, and are really familiar with the area and the artists. We had fun, and learned a lot from them.

Another thing that we had fun helping to set up for in the morning was Emi's Chair Installation. The chair exhibit is in memory of all the local grandmothers who have died. Emi collects old chairs and trasteros or china cabinets. The locals know of this, and will bring them to her door. She refurbishes them, and paints them. She painted them in bright colors for this exhibition, and made the pillows herself. (There actually used to be more pillows, but since first making them has sold quite a few). It was quite touching when Spencer read the tribute that Emi had written to all of the grandmothers of Casas Grandes.

During the brunch we also acquired our first two Mata Ortiz Pots!!!!! These pots were made by Lourdes Nunez Corral and Jesus Nunez. They are quite beautiful and well made. Jesus Nunez was actually trained in pottery by the famous Nicolas Quezada, one of Juan Quezada's younger brothers. They both are two side symmetrical designs along the traditional style.

Both of these pots can also be viewed (and purchased) on our website: www.desilvaimports.com

Next we were off with Spencer MacCallum for a tour of two more of their histocial restored adobe homes... La Casa Roja and La Casa Azul. First stop... La Casa Roja... but it is getting late, people want to sleep.. so I will leave that adventure for the next installment...

We arrive in Casas Grandes!!!

Saturday November 21st, 2009

We left Tucson in the morning, and arrived at the border in Douglas, Arizona at 11:30am. Once we arrived at the border, we called and left Spencer and Emi MacCallum a voicemail message to let them know when to expect us. We crossed over into Agua Prieta, Mexico and the adventure began!!!

Since we are traveling further south into the heart and soul of Mexico, we had to obtain a tourist card and a permit to temporarily import our car. Right after crossing the border into Mexico, there is an office that issues everything right in one place. We just crossed the border, made the first right turn, and parked behind the building. Okay well to be honest... it was our second time, and we still went to the wrong building! But a really nice lady saw our lost souls.. and pointed us to the building on the other block where we were really supposed to be... but that is a secret, so don't tell anyone please! (Sounds so much cooler when we know what we are doing!)

The people were so nice! The Mexican Immigration official who issued our tourist permit even suggested that we would only need a seven day permit, and then we would not have to pay a fee... totally free! Cool! Only thing is that we would have to make sure to return to the office by the seventh day to surrender our permit. That worked out perfect for us. Then we were on to the window to pay the fee for the permit on the car. That went smooth and easy as well. Everyone had a bright smile, and were more than willing to assist with information. We even did a bit of translating for an American man who was headed to Hermosillo, but the officials did not understand what he was trying to tell them in English. Then he was on his way, and we were at the booth to purchase Mexican Auto Insurance. That went as smooth as could be as well, and the lady who worked there even explained that we might want to think about buying a 6 month or year insurance policy, since we drive often in Mexico... that will save us a lot of money! Now I know there are a lot of people who are very nervous traveling to Mexico right now, and especially in the border regions. I understand those concerns, but for our part, I must say that the people we encountered at the border were extremely friendly, especially honest, and definitely helpful! A great first impression for what lies ahead!

We were off.... traveling down Mexican Highway 2. First through the city of Agua Prieta, then east through the mountains of the Mexican State of Sonora and into the Mexican State of Chihuahua. Now... how shall I say this... those mountain passes are a trip! Everyone we talked to later on in the trip, and in our research before hand, said they won't drive through those mountains. To be honest, it was a rather nail biting experience.The road way is quite narrow, and full of trucks. Most of the way, we had a double trailer gas tanker truck in front of us, and a regular semi or two behind us. Then throw in some really crazy drivers with nerve... and you have a real mess. I suppose there are not tons of little road side memorials on the road for nothing... just glad that one of those crosses did not have my name on it! I think that a lot of those were probably from head on accidents caused by people passing on blind curves! Good Lord! I sure would not drive this road at night, but during the day I was fine with it. The mountain scenery is just incredible, and I would not have wanted to miss the sights! Besides, the mountain driving was the most entertaining of the road travels. We did have one funny moment through the mountain pass... as soon as we hit the pass, and mind you in the middle of nowhere in Mexico, our Check Engine light came blaring on! Ack! Now exactly what can you do in that sort of a situation? It is not like there is a Toyota Dealer on the side of the mountain... so we just kept on driving..and praying..and driving... and praying... (And to this day the light is STILL on, and we are still procrastinating on getting the issue fixed! Too much to do, too little time.)

When we arrived in Janos, Mexico, we then switched to Mexican Highway 10 South towards Casas Grandes. Here, right below Janos, there is a Mexican Immigration checkpoint. We stopped and showed that we had the temporary permit affixed to our windshield, and we were waved through with no problems what so ever. there were lots of stands tempting us with the Mennonite cheese that the State of Chihuahua is famous for, but we were on a mission and a time line... off to Casas Grandes...

We found Spencer and Emi's house in a flash, upon arriving on the new one way street into town. And we made friends with their three dogs right away. Emi came out and greeted us, and then took us over to the Casa del Nopal, where we would be staying. This was one of the destinations that I was really excited about... the old restored adobe homes that Spencer and Emi purchased, refurbished and decked out with local antiques. A great adventure in the authentic spirit of the Wild Wild West! Thank you to Spencer and Emi for making that possible for us. It is a memory that we will cherish forever.

Spencer was already at Casa del Nopal, giving a tour to a group of people from Cathy and Marshall Giesy's Fiesta Tours International tour group. Anyone interested in a tour in Latin America, should be sure to check out their tour offerings at www.fiestatoursint.com They have some great tours, not only to Mata Ortiz, but also whale watching in Mexico, Visits to San Miguel de Allende, Oaxaca, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Bolivia and Peru. The Giesy's are incredibly interesting and very knowledgeable... and their tours sound like a lot of fun!

 

Spencer let us join in on the tour, and we learned a lot about the history of the house, and the history of the area. The house is incredible, with a wood burning stove, adobe walls, tile floors and antiques galore. The grounds of the adobe houses are spectacular... so rich in history and natural, rustic beauty. I believe that there is a special place in heaven reserved for Spencer and Emi... they are fantastic custodians of our collective history and our environment, as well as special envoys of peace in this world. A shining example to all of us!

Next we were off to the Catholic church that is being built in Casa Grandes, La Capilla de la Divina Misericordia. It is being built to replicate the ruins of the Convento San Antonio de Padua, a church from the 17th century that was done in the adobe style. This was the style of Chihuahua's earliest churches.

The painting behind the altar was done by a local artist, Gisela, who trained in Italy and actually painted churches there. She also lived in the United States for awhile, but has returned to Casas Grandes to care for her mother. We were blessed to visit Gisela's home and studio, which overlooks the ruins of Paquime. Gisela oversaw and designed all aspects of her home, including the second floor sanctuary that over looks the mountains and a field frequented by some gorgeous horses.

We were amazed to hear that one of the local government officials had tried to pass a plan to use this gorgeous land that neighbors the Paquime Ruins, and turn it into low income housing. Surely with so much open land, there must be a better location to be found, rather than on the border of land rich in cultural heritage. Thankfully, this project never reached fruition.

After our visit, Spencer and Emi dropped us back off at our new home, La Casa del Nopal, before heading on to a dinner at the home of Phil and Jeannie Stover in Mata Ortiz. It was the Trader's and Friends  Yearly Meeting that weekend, and we had 15 minutes to unpack the car and freshen up! One...Two... Three... GO! We were going to be lucky enough to attend this dinner, and it would turn out to be a pivotal point for all the great experiences we had on our trip. The Stover's were very gracious hosts, and there home is beyond gorgeous! It was funny being in a house full of strangers, but so many people came up to us and welcomed us.. it turned out to be a great evening. At the dinner we met Daniel, whose family lives at the Hacienda San Diego... a very historic local Hacienda that I will tell you much more about later in the blog, as we had the pleasure of a personalized tour and visit with his family. Daniel is a very gracious and helpful young man! He gave us a tour of the house, inside and out, and introduced us to his sister Diana. These two are some of the most lovely people around! Diana also gives tours in the local area, and runs a gift shop out of her office at La Casa del Nopal. If you ever need translation assistance, or a knowledgeable guide in the area you can contact Diana through her website at  www.agavelindotours.com

Through Daniel, we discovered that they have relatives living in Downey, California which is right next to where we live, and where I go grocery shopping and errand running several times a week. It really is a small world, and we should remember that we are all very connected in this world.

During the dinner, we also had the pleasure of meeting Adalberto Perez Meillon, who owns a gallery in Ensenada, Mexico close to where the cruise ships dock, is an outstanding artist and painter, and also owns a beautiful home in Mata Ortiz. You will learn a lot more about Adalberto as the blog goes on... we were lucky enough to develop a friendship with him during our trip.

By that time, we were tired and we had had quite a long adventure. When Spencer and Emi left, we decided that it would be best to follow them back to Casas Grandes. It was dark outside...like pitch black dark outside... and we were not that familiar with the lay of the land yet. we said our good byes and our thank you's and headed out. As soon as we walked outside, we were just blown away by the beauty of the sky at night... a million stars everywhere! We followed Spencer and Emi down a little dirt road that was the cut through back to the main paved road... a little road that we never found again! Our beautiful hosts guided us all the way home, and we settled in for the night.

This is the bed that I got to sleep in....

a bed with a lot of historical value, and a trip to think of who may have slept in this bed before me. Spencer was able to get this antique bed from the Hacienda San Diego. it was part of the original furnishings of the home. As a result, it could have been the bed that the legendary Mexican Revolutionary PANCHO VILLA slept in! As well as the bed that Mexican President Francisco I. Madero slept in. Who knows...

Off to bed with visions of revolutions in my head.....

Getting Ready for the Trip

The preparation for our trip revealed some really exciting information on things to see and do in the area of Mata Ortiz, as well as along the way down there. We last went to the village of Mata Ortiz three long years ago... actually now, it seems more like a lifetime ago! Writing this after our trip, I am really am not sure how we were able to stay away from the place and the people for that long! Mata Ortiz is just one of those quiet, remote places on Earth where you feel easy and comfortable. Coming from Los Angeles, the concrete jungle, where people are automatically on guard to those who are not known around them... it was such a fantastic breath of fresh air to be in a place where everyone knew each other, where people waved hello even when they did not know you... even when just passing in the next car traveling the opposite way down the road. I don't think that I have ever been greeted so genuinely by so many people in a single day! Mata Ortiz is a truly special slice of the world... a slice of the world that draws you in and makes you want to join in the fun!

While researching the best way to go about our trip, I ran across the information posted by the famous American anthropologist, Spencer MacCallum, at www.mataortizcalendar.com
This website is an invaluable resource to any of you out there that are planning a trip to the Casas Grandes area of Northern Chihuahua, Mexico. Spencer MacCallum can be credited with the popularity and the recognition that the pottery from Mata Ortiz has achieved in this world. After searching for, and locating, Juan Quezada (in the then little known remote village of Mata Ortiz, Mexico), Spencer worked closely first with Juan and then with other pioneering potters to develop a life giving industry for the area. As a result, Mata Ortiz Pottery is widely collected throughout the world, and is included in numerous museums and high end galleries as well. And inspiring enough, Mata Ortiz is one of the few towns in Chihuahua that does not regularly lose the majority of its residents to immigration. With over 500 potters plying their trade in the village, people have had a home grown cottage industry bringing in income to the village. Much of this due to the hard work and life's dedication that Spencer MacCallum has given to the area. Hopefully the current economic down turn will not change this for the future. It would be a shame, and a cultural loss, to see people leaving the village in search of other economic resources. This beautiful artistry and tradition must be kept alive!

In my world, Spencer MacCallum and his wife Emi are celebrities... so imagine my surprise and delight when Spencer offered to call me at my home, and give me pointers on artists and things that I should be sure to experience on our trip to Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz! I was nervous and excited to speak to this honorable and distinguished gentleman... and gentleman he definitely is! Spencer patiently answered my questions, provided numerous suggestions, and even allowed us to rent an old restored adobe home for a short term rental... a place I was dying to stay! Spencer graciously told us to come to his house when we first arrive in Casas Grandes, and then he would show us around. I think I was what they call "over the moon"... or maybe it was star struck... whatever it was, I was definitely at a loss for words!

Finally, the morning of Friday November 20, 2009 had arrived... the day of our scheduled departure!!! Although it arrived at the unholy hour of 5am, we were none the less excited to begin our adventure! After finalizing last minute details, and downing a cup of coffee at good old Starbucks... we were off and onto the freeway by 6:30 ugly am. Can you tell.. I am NOT a morning person!

Smooth sailing the whole way through California and into Arizona! Shew! We had missed the dreaded LA Rush Hour Traffic. As the songs and sayings go... "We Love LA" ... just not the traffic! But since we were traveling east, we had traveled the width of the state in record time. But of course that too could be because while Louis drove his heart out... I for one... SLEPT!! So it really did not seem all that long to me at all... go figure!!

Driving through Arizona was a trip. They have these crazy Photo Enforcement Zones... very dangerous indeed for the California driver! This essentially means that there are marked Police SUVs parked along the side of the freeway all over the place. The SUVs seemed not to have anyone in them, but they had these really tall polls with cameras and what I imagined to be the dreaded RADAR attached. So of course, this is where Louis decided that I should take over the driving... thanks..thanks a lot mister! After stopping for gas, we were getting back on the freeway when Louis decided to distract me while opening a bag a chips... my favorite junk food in life. The pedal went to the metal..and BAM... out of nowhere was one of those crazy SUVs! BUSTED! Really it was only a matter of a minute... honestly... and all due to a bag of chips... but hey, I was hungry officer! To this day, I am still checking the mail nervously ... but so far, so good! May it just stay that way, please.

We arrived in the beautiful desert city of Tucson at 1:45, excited for a full afternoon of sightseeing! One problem though - it was really 2:45 and we had forgotten to take into account the time difference. I ran out to mail a package to a customer back east, that I had forgotten to mail the day before.. and Louis checked out the dinner scene for Miguel's (YUMMM). When I returned to the hotel... La Posada (we loved it!)... we met up with a terrific new customer named Robyn, to deliver some Josefina Aguilar clay figures. She was so interesting and so much fun... we could have talked for hours! She is an artist, and does some wonderful Day of the Dead paintings!! Beautiful twist on the Day of the Dead theme, with colorful flowers and a cheerful essence. We love her work! I'll have to ask her for a link to post for everyone... we can't wait to visit her again!

Next we were off to see the San Xavier del Bac Mission on the outskirts of town. It is actually situated on Tohono O'odham Indian land, and is rich in cultural history. Absolutely beautiful too! The present mission church was built in the late 1700's, but one of the towers was never completed. It is a mystery to this day, why the second tower was never completed. From the moment we first laid our eyes on the structure, we were captivated by it's beauty. We pulled to the side of the road as soon as it came into sight, and tried to glimpse it from every angle. We arrived right as they were closing for the day, but the very hospitable caretakers of the property allowed us in the church in time to see the altar and leave behind a few prayers. We will definitely be back one day... this time with time to spare! You can read more about the mission on their website www.sanxaviermission.org/Index.html

We drove back into town, stopping in the old historic part of Tucson. Only 6pm on a Friday night, and the shops were all closed. So we headed back to La Posada, and then to Miguel's for a delicious dinner. Not being able to enjoy the stores in downtown Tucson, as well as the De Grazia gallery... as they say in travel.. you should always leave some things undone in a place you love..then you are sure to return! Hopefully it will be a day, just around the corner.

Good night all! Off to sleep with dreams of Mata Ortiz Pottery in our heads....